Surfing Day
Current mood:
sore
As of Saturday the 28th of April I got up around 7am in the morning to pack for the
first surfing day of the season. I was hoping today that there will be a bunch of
surfers and good weather. Otherwise I brought two surfboards(one
longboard and short board) depending on size of waves. It was pretty
chilly morning with no sunrise in sight and I drove off around 7:30 to
Florence. Got there around 9. One hour and half drive dude!! Yeah I
have a ghetto Honda so no speeding tickets. I got there to South Jetty
and was surprised that I was first to show up. Took a look around
testing the wind and air temperature. Gotta love the ocean breeze and
air. I stripped down all of my clothes except my top layers. Took on my
rental wetsuit from Boardsports. Grabbed my longboard and took a short
walk down to the water and tested how cold it was. 50-55 degrees I
predicted. Same as air temp. Brrr. Took a pause to find the spot to
paddle in. Beforehand I have to wet my face to get used to it then
head deeper as waves hits me repeatedly. I figured out that the waves
weren't flowing as well but against another which makes is harder for
surfers to settle with the board. It looked rough and treacherous with
too many waves at once I guessed. I grabbed a few for good to get in
shape for the season. My body did not panic with water elements which
is good becuase I spent a lot of time riding in the winter up in snow.
Second surfer who is from Washington came. Then surfed till lunch and
headed home. Newport's most popular surf spot Otter Rock could be my next stop
to surf next wkend or so. We'll see.