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Household items and stuff you can buy at a hardware store for snowboarding fix-ups/repairs.

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steele101

Posts : 115
ONLINE

Posted on Dec 28, 2007

I don't recommend using a base cleaner of any kind because you'll dry out your base, and it will take many waxings to bring it back.  A better method is the hot-scrape technique.  Use some inexpensive wax (hydrocarbon) to do this.  Apply the wax with an iron and scrape it immediately while it is still hot.  Keep scraping until no more wax comes up.  Don't use a metal scraper, it will damage your base.  The heat will draw out dirt and residue.  You may need to do this twice to fully clean your base.  Ideally, you should brush the base lightly with a brass brush after you scrape to remove even more wax.  Afterwards, apply a quality wax to your clean base which now has a good basecoat too.  Another good tool from the hardware store are diamond stones which you should always use to deburr your edges after filing.  Burrs on your edge will only slow you down and decrease turnability.  I bought three diamond stones for five bucks at a hardware store.

M-C

Posts : 1162
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Posted on Jan 12, 2008

Seems like if anything is gonna fuck up your base, it'll be a brass brush. Thanks.
Digital is Dead


Snowboarder117

Posts : 200
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Posted on Jan 15, 2008

I remember hearing somewhere that the componds in loc-tite will delaminate your board or eat away at the glues after awhile.
Is that true?


steele101

Posts : 115
ONLINE

Posted on Jan 17, 2008

Posted by M-C
Seems like if anything is gonna fuck up your base, it'll be a brass brush. Thanks.
 
Huh.  I'm pretty sure a brass base brush is an essential part of any proper tuning kit.  Do your homework before making assumptions.

AlisonCJ

Posts : 1624
ONLINE

Posted on Jan 17, 2008

Posted by Snowboarder117
I remember hearing somewhere that the componds in loc-tite will delaminate your board or eat away at the glues after awhile.
Is that true?



I'm not sure about the glue, but apparently it voids binding warranties because it corrodes plastic.. i.e. your bindings
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Oddity

Posts : 2737
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Posted on Jan 17, 2008

Posted by AlisonCJ
Posted by Snowboarder117
I remember hearing somewhere that the componds in loc-tite will delaminate your board or eat away at the glues after awhile.
Is that true?



I'm not sure about the glue, but apparently it voids binding warranties because it corrodes plastic.. i.e. your bindings


Yep. If you make a sloppy mess of it then you may have warranty issues. Just set the screws aside and drop a dab of loc-tite on each, then let it dry, then screw it in, and no problems!
..
Oh noes, I deleted my sig
..damn


cloudswinger

Posts : 1
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Posted on Mar 07, 2008

Posted by steele101
Posted by M-C
Seems like if anything is gonna fuck up your base, it'll be a brass brush. Thanks.
 
Huh.  I'm pretty sure a brass base brush is an essential part of any proper tuning kit.  Do your homework before making assumptions.


Was looking at putting a kit together, and from what I found, the little brass brush is for cleaning your files, not your base. I did find cheap brass brushes like them at the dollar store.
http://www.racewax.com/servlet/the-209/Ski%2C-snowboard%2C-kit%2C-tune%2C/Detail
There are brass brushes for cleaning the base, but they're really fine bristles and don't generally come in most tuning kits. like this http://www.racewax.com/servlet/the-13/Ski%2C-snowboard%2C-brush%2C-brass%2C/Detail

iamtheman78

Posts : 317
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Posted on Mar 10, 2008

i heard somewhere that a soldering iron is good to put p-tex anyone ever hear or try this?
 
U ARE SOFA KING WE TODD IT


Agent-G

Posts : 3166
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Posted on Mar 10, 2008

yeah, a soldering iron works really well actually. Generally the soldering iron is used for the ribbon coiled ptex that is made to bond to metal, but it works for the regualar ptex also.
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steele101

Posts : 115
ONLINE

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

Posted by cloudswinger
Posted by steele101
Posted by M-C
Seems like if anything is gonna fuck up your base, it'll be a brass brush. Thanks.
 
Huh.  I'm pretty sure a brass base brush is an essential part of any proper tuning kit.  Do your homework before making assumptions.


Was looking at putting a kit together, and from what I found, the little brass brush is for cleaning your files, not your base. I did find cheap brass brushes like them at the dollar store.
http://www.racewax.com/servlet/the-209/Ski%2C-snowboard%2C-kit%2C-tune%2C/Detail
There are brass brushes for cleaning the base, but they're really fine bristles and don't generally come in most tuning kits. like this http://www.racewax.com/servlet/the-13/Ski%2C-snowboard%2C-brush%2C-brass%2C/Detail
What's the confusion about here?  It's just a brass brush for your base.  I have a horsehair one too.  I waxed for fifteen years without them, but you'll do a better job with them.  No big deal, use a scotch-brite instead.

M-C

Posts : 1162
ONLINE

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

Im going to stick with a scraper thank you. I cant see a brush making a big difference in the waxing process..
Digital is Dead


AKinPA

Posts : 45
ONLINE

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

+1 for brushes.  For removing wax, you'll want the somewhat finer brass over the excessively course brass, and certainly not the steel bristles.  Some grill scrapers will suffice, to keep on the cheap.  It's best to inspect a bonafide brass tuning brush first, to have a reference, before buying a substitute.  Flat bottom, level, nylon bristled floor scrubbing brushes will suffice for structuring (and even cleaning to an extent) as well, in lieu of an equivalent "tuning" brush.  The green scrubby Scotchbrite pads are good for structuring as well.  I like them for the final structuring, after all excess wax has been scraped and nylon brushed, in particular.  I don't like chemicals, being of the opinion they can be too damaging for the base.
 
Also, the better hardware stores, in particular, often have a variety of nuts and bolts in high quality grades that serve as suitable replacements for original binding hardware.  Same with allen wrenches and small tools.  (Not always true with the box stores.) 

Frocco86

Posts : 13
OFFLINE

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

lose a washer?   use a tab from a beer can or 2 if you lose a washer but remeber not to overtighten so you dont dimple your base


iggnew

Posts : 31
ONLINE

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

Posted by steele101
Posted by cloudswinger
Posted by steele101
Posted by M-C
Seems like if anything is gonna fuck up your base, it'll be a brass brush. Thanks.
 
Huh.  I'm pretty sure a brass base brush is an essential part of any proper tuning kit.  Do your homework before making assumptions.


Was looking at putting a kit together, and from what I found, the little brass brush is for cleaning your files, not your base. I did find cheap brass brushes like them at the dollar store.
http://www.racewax.com/servlet/the-209/Ski%2C-snowboard%2C-kit%2C-tune%2C/Detail
There are brass brushes for cleaning the base, but they're really fine bristles and don't generally come in most tuning kits. like this http://www.racewax.com/servlet/the-13/Ski%2C-snowboard%2C-brush%2C-brass%2C/Detail
What's the confusion about here?  It's just a brass brush for your base.  I have a horsehair one too.  I waxed for fifteen years without them, but you'll do a better job with them.  No big deal, use a scotch-brite instead.

Ask 10 different people how to tune a snowboard and you'll get 10 different answers. Even the companies that sell the tools can't agree on exactly what the proper way is. Find out what works best for you. For me it's:

Base cleaner when it gets real dirty (usually spring time)
hot wax with an all temp wax and a regular clothes iron (dedicated for wax of course)
scrap with plastic 
scotch brite any excess wax for a nice sheen
brush with a short bristled, stiff nylon brush 

Most importantly don't over think it . Ride, wax, repeat 

OR-G

Posts : 134
ONLINE

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

Not sure if anyone has said this, but you can get a pretty decent nylon brush at walmart. Isn't as large as the toko one, but also only costs ~$2.50. Don't really need a large brush anyways since it is just a few more swipes. Can find it in the household cleaning section. Might even be able to find these in Target or any other place that sells household cleaning supplies.

m_jel

Posts : 191
ONLINE

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

Posted by tbmg
has anybody used 'orange glo' for a base cleaner? it's a wood surface cleaner...

yea, i'm wondering this too, I've been using it, but want to make sure that I'm not doing any inadvertent damage
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ridethatlip

Posts : 2
ONLINE

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

i have a question for anyone..i want a custom snowboarding helmet..a cool graphic or something..can anyone tell me where to go?

is this available..from anywhere in the world?

namjah

Posts : 200
ONLINE

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

--must've had a couple drinks in me when I was posting this.. --
[Edited by namjah on 1/13/2009 at 6:49 PM]

M-C

Posts : 1162
ONLINE

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

Posted by ridethatlip
i have a question for anyone..i want a custom snowboarding helmet..a cool graphic or something..can anyone tell me where to go?

is this available..from anywhere in the world?


send me your helmet. I'll paint it.
Digital is Dead


SnowyJunglist

Posts : 263
ONLINE

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

Hey nice thread.
 
I just wanted to add something about using coarse brushes for your base. In autobody repair when working on bonding plastics my buddy always uses sandpaper on plastic surfaces to open up as many pores as possible so the glue will set better. Using a brass brush to clean your base is essentially doing the same thing. Its good for your plastic if your concerned about absorption (and I hope you are).
 
So as we know, sometimes a hot wax wont get the all the dirt out of the pores of the base and using a base cleaner is just bad for obvious reasons. So we want to maximize the potential for cleaning our base. Here's what I think is best:
 
hot wax, scrape, use a brass brush to manually lift dirt from pores (think about it like how a person would exfoliate their skin), hot wax, scrape, reapply wax and its sexy time
 
Thats my deep clean method. I only do it every so often.
 
Also on the ptex tip, I just use a lighter. I got a nice method that keeps a perfect blue flame going on the ptex string while I slowly run it down the scratch. It drips right in and the ptex gets the perfect temperature to sit into the base. I've never had any pull out on me once. To smooth it down I use a sanding sponge (which is 10x better than using regular sandpaper) and a pack of razor blades from the hardware store.
 
My company also provides me with a home depot credit card. Its a beautiful little perk.

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