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Snowolf

Posts : 2606
ONLINE

Posted on Nov 03, 2007

Posted by nismo80
since I'm ice-coast all man-made snow, would you consider that as no need to polish? or at least night boarding? but i should polish for fresh packed groomed man-made right?
 
If it`s icy, the polishing step is`nt really necesary as it`s already very slick and icy conditions are alos very abrasive. Fresh and fresh man made you will get better performance from polishing.

cheshirefoxxx

Posts : 403
OFFLINE

Posted on Nov 10, 2007

i swear i'm actually going to sit down and read this thread someday...... ok so i glances through it
anything on what to do with your gear after a day of riding.... so you're back at your car..... you and your board are full of slush, it's f'n cold out, but you haveto brush off your gear right? as well as you can... then what, just throw it in the trunk of your car? or in your plastic gear tote? with the zipper left open? or maybe wrap it up in a moisture wicking material?? you get home and you're f'n tired too.. leave it in the trunk? take it in dry it off completey??
what's the best deal

[Edited by cheshirefoxxx on 11/11/2007 at 2:25 AM]

Snowolf

Posts : 2606
ONLINE

Posted on Nov 11, 2007

What I do is when I get home, I take my board and hit it with the hose to wash off the road salt and grit, then bring it in the house to dry. I never it leave it out in the truck. It takes just a couple of minutes; be kind to your board.
For the trip home, I would not put it in the bag; it just makes your board bag wet. If you have the plastic cargo thingy on top of the car, try to get as much snow and water off then put it in there. Whenever you can, leave that thing open to let it air dry and don`t keep things that absorb moisture like towels and rags in that gargo carrier. Never leave your board in that thing overnight; it is amazing how damn fast rust will show up on your edges.
 
 
 
 
 

[Edited by Snowolf on 11/11/2007 at 6:33 AM]

MountainGirl

Posts : 20
ONLINE

Posted on Nov 23, 2007

K, what if you are a master of the chairlift (or at least, can get on and off without causing  a major pile up:) but you and the tow rope have massive issues with each other? Last time I tried to use the tow (in Jasper) I bit it so hard that the tow rope swung back and hit me in the face, cracking my goggles. Haha, yah, I wish there had been a camera, but even so it's not a moment I want to repeat.
Any tips? I'm off to Whistler soon and I'm going to try my hand at the tow again, but I still have no idea what I am doing wrong when I am trying to steer (I would veer off in random directions and then catch an edge when I tried to point myself the right way!) Any help at all would be very much appreciated!

Snowolf

Posts : 2606
ONLINE

Posted on Nov 26, 2007

I hate that thing too, but with kids lessons it`s sometimes the only thing safe for them. What I do is I of course keep the board pointed straight up the hill and I ride up slightly on my toe edge and kind of "hug" the rope I use my hands like a clutch to slowly grab the rope and gradually grip it tighter to start moving (just like slipping the clutch on a hill) I find it easiest to steer the board with the front foot and take small corrections so I don`t get the board too out of line. As in everything, it just takes practice.

MountainGirl

Posts : 20
ONLINE

Posted on Nov 26, 2007

Thanks! I'm off to Whistler this weekend, so hopefully it will be a slightly more successful attempt on the dreaded tow. If not, well, at least I can handle the chair. LOL


Snipe2Kill

Posts : 10
ONLINE

Posted on Dec 11, 2007

Awesome guide, I just started and all I do is fall.

Scorer099

Posts : 148
ONLINE

Posted on Dec 12, 2007

My problemo lift wise is those damn T-bars. I always fall. I see some people go through their legs with it and others put it behind their hip. I used the later method and never had very good success. Any tips?

juice04

Posts : 83
ONLINE

Posted on Dec 21, 2007

Just got a new Salomon Special.  How critical is it to wax it before any riding?  Is the stock wax good enough from the factory?  Also, any special methods to prevent or eliminate rust on your edges?
 
Thanks

bristolboy13

Posts : 79
ONLINE

Posted on Dec 30, 2007

im 12 and i think im pretty good(aka the terrain park) . but i always get those jacka$$es who treat me like crap.
so what do i do?...and kno i will not tell ski patroll
 
i wish i could keep telling myself life is shi*t then open my eye's
and have it like yours.
~-eat, sleep, ride-~


skp

Posts : 72
ONLINE

Posted on Jan 01, 2008

ask them how old they are (So you make a point), and ride off.

And by treating you like crap, you mean trash talking?


mrcw14

Posts : 91
ONLINE

Posted on Jan 04, 2008

i ushully ignore them and try to do something better than they think i can do and they might shut up and if nothing works just flip them the finger and say f*ck you
 
More
Steez
Pleez


perimeterbur...

Posts : 117
OFFLINE

Posted on Jan 10, 2008

That always works. Hell I'm 25 and that's my automatic response.
 
So Quick question. I have 1's down pretty well as they're pretty easy. Just jumping and whipping the board around isn't too hard, but I think I might be setting myself up for some pain if I were to try a 3. With all these tips it says lead with the head making a full 360 degree turn to do the 180 but it almost seems like too much. I keep over rotating when I try it that way. So is the full upper body rotation more just something I should be doing to set myself to try 3's later, or is it something I should really be trying to do everytime for when I move up to bigger jumps?
Thou Shalt Learn To Live In Fear Of The Noodlenator
DDDEEERRR-RAT


KyleWeevers

Posts : 421
ONLINE

Posted on Jan 14, 2008

Wolfy! I just finally watched your video for the first time and I gotta say nice work. The only thing I would suggest is that you DO NOT pull your scraper towards you. It is better to always scrape away from you. This way there is a less likely chance of scrapping too deep into the base material.

Otherwise great video! I think everytime I see a new wax post I'm gonna link it.


lonerider

Posts : 1306
ONLINE

Posted on Jan 14, 2008

Posted by perimeterburn999
That always works. Hell I'm 25 and that's my automatic response.
So Quick question. I have 1's down pretty well as they're pretty easy. Just jumping and whipping the board around isn't too hard, but I think I might be setting myself up for some pain if I were to try a 3. With all these tips it says lead with the head making a full 360 degree turn to do the 180 but it almost seems like too much. I keep over rotating when I try it that way. So is the full upper body rotation more just something I should be doing to set myself to try 3's later, or is it something I should really be trying to do everytime for when I move up to bigger jumps?
For backside 180, you are landing blind, meaning you should not rotate your head the full 360 as you will over-rotate like you have discovered. All blind landings (backside 180, frontside 360, backside 540, etc) you should not rotate you head forward else you will over-rotated. Mainly look "down" to spot the landing. Here is a how-to video on TWSnow for BS180.

Posted by KyleWeevers
Wolfy! I just finally watched your video for the first time and I gotta say nice work. The only thing I would suggest is that you DO NOT pull your scraper towards you. It is better to always scrape away from you. This way there is a less likely chance of scrapping too deep into the base material.
Has anyone "scrapped too deep" in to a base of a board using a flat scrapper recently (like in the last ten years)? I remember being told something like this years ago, but after seeing dozens of people wax and scrap their board haphazardly without it ever happening. I am personally a little skeptical that this is a real danger.



[Edited by lonerider on 1/14/2008 at 5:18 PM]

ryan_e

Posts : 344
OFFLINE

Posted on Jan 14, 2008

Posted by Snowolf
Damn.....I KNEW I was forgetting something...good point....beer is an essential...my bad.
 
Yeah I got carried away with the wax; trying to make sure it showed up well on film....call me wax whore...
 
instead of dripping the wax on if you just touch the wax onto the iron for a little bit and then almost chalking it on the board, tip to tail. it will slide easy for between 3-8ish inches and thats usually where i stop. you can cover quite a bit of base while conserving more wax.

KyleWeevers

Posts : 421
ONLINE

Posted on Jan 15, 2008

Posted by loneride

Posted by KyleWeevers
Wolfy! I just finally watched your video for the first time and I gotta say nice work. The only thing I would suggest is that you DO NOT pull your scraper towards you. It is better to always scrape away from you. This way there is a less likely chance of scrapping too deep into the base material.
Has anyone "scrapped too deep" in to a base of a board using a flat scrapper recently (like in the last ten years)? I remember being told something like this years ago, but after seeing dozens of people wax and scrap their board haphazardly without it ever happening. I am personally a little skeptical that this is a real danger.



[Edited by lonerider on 1/14/2008 at 5:18 PM]


I have fixed 5 bases this year due to overzealous scraping. It is hard to do with scrapers these days, but still possible. I am still amazed at what people manage to do with their snowboards when they bring them to me to fix.

straightblast

Posts : 17
ONLINE

Posted on Feb 14, 2008

anyone recommend any instructional videos for jumps/tricks?.. whats your fav video?
 
jumping with jussi any good?..

Lokar

Posts : 29
OFFLINE

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

I think all videos can help. I like "Follow me around"
[Edited by Lokar on 25.02.2008 at 5:29]
What question you ask yourself when situation is really danger?...


Snowolf

Posts : 2606
ONLINE

Posted on Mar 10, 2008

I am working on a few video projects...right now it is more for the basics for beginners.

[Edited by Snowolf on 3/11/2008 at 8:17 AM]

SnoBo1020

Posts : 2
ONLINE

Posted on Oct 21, 2008

Hey Snowold,
Im a farly good rider at 14, I have a question that i hope u can answer for my,
I can land 180s and 360s easily on a halfpipe,, Im getting to the point where i can through grabs in and stuff on the halp pipe but everytime i try to boost up and try a 540 i either over spin and land a very sketchy 7 or i boost way to high and end up crowning the pipe and wiping,,,
If you know anything that might help me out that would be great
TTYL Bro

polemite.pro...

Posts : 84
ONLINE

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

the fundamentals for all freestyle snowboarding
by dave martin
 
this info is for anyone of any ability level that wants to improve their riding. even the most simple of practices applies to the most difficult of tricks. first off, the ability to nail tricks in snowboarding is broken up into actual skill, and confidence. a huge part of this game is mental. most people already posses the nessesary skills to start doing things like going inverted, but there is a huge mental block to overcome before they will actually attempt it. of course, skill and confidence go hand in hand. the greater your skills, the more your confidence level goes up. the more your confidence level goes up, the more willing you are to push you skills.
 
your mental game
confidence is the hardest to build on because it is basically a battle with fear. one big fear is that people think that the faster they go, the more likely they are to get hurt in the event of a wipeout. in most cases its actually just the opposite. you are most likely to get hurt when all of your momentum comes to a complete stop in one instant. this happens all the time when you are going slow. but when you are moving fast, you will more often slide out and lose momentum gradually.
keep in mind that if one human can pull something off, so can you. you are made of the same stuff as everyone else. staying calm and thinking logically is key. many pros do things like yoga and meditation. regardless of how gay you think that is, it works on improving your mental game.
you have most likely heard someone say "visualize the trick before you hit the jump". this is great advice, but no one ever explains what kind of factors play into an accurate visualization. you need to think of things like body position and trajectory if you are going to pull this off AND land on your feet. most people focus so much attention on the actual trick, that they forget about where they have to be for the landing. keep in mind that your trajectory is not only forward, up, and down, but in most cases you will also drift left or right depending on how you take off the jump. you need to account for this when visualizing your body position for a solid landing. a visualization that helps with body position is to imagine that you are like one of thoughs horses on a carosel ride. imagine that there is a solid pole that runs verticly through your body to the ground. imagine that where the pole passes through your center of gravity there is an axis that your body can pivot on in any direction. however, your body mass must be lined up with that pole in order to be centered for your landing.
 
developing your skills
the first thing you need to be aware of at all times is that the natural flow of snowboarding is back and forth from heel edge to toe edge. this plays a huge role on your body position and center of gravity. when approching a jump, consider which edge you want to be on when you leave the lip. be on the oppisite edge prior to the transition, be flat based when you reach the tranny, and you will be on your desired edge by the time you leave the lip. do this every time, and you will always leave the lip in control.
one mistake i see many people making is that when the leave the lip of a jump, they explode with fully extended legs to get the most out of their ollie. sure, you will go higher, but this is a good way to put yourself off balance. instead, bend your knees during the tranny, and only straighten them out about 3/4 of the way off the lip. you are going to have much more control in the air, and with time your legs will get strong enough that you will be going just as high as always.
the basis for the most stylish grabs is the shifty. practice both frontside and backside shiftys. everything below the waist should be totally relaxed when in the air. the motion is controled from your torso, NOT your legs. this is true for almost all tricks in snowboarding, including spining and flipping, so spend a lot of time perfecting your shiftys. it will pay off bigtime in the long run. once you have it down, try your method grabs. get your buddy to take a picture. you should have not problem comparing it to a classic method puller like jamie lynn.
make sure to take note of your body position in the air. focus on shifting your body mass so that your center of gravity is over the center of your board when you are touching down on your landing. this might mean pitching your body forward a bit, or from one side to the other depending on the angle of the tranny. if you are constantly landing with your weight over your heels, or excessivly in the back seat, shift your weight so that you are landing centered, or a little bit over your toe edge. backside 180's are notorious for putting people over on their heel edge. an indy grab or a stalefish will sometimes help put you in the right spot, but pay attention so that you can pull it with any grab.
 
technical difficulties
most people will tell you to "spot your landing" when finishing up a spin/flip. spotting your landing is not the last thing you do during your trick. it is actually the first thig you do. what that means is that you lead your trick with your head. don't be looking down at your board for the grab. you don't need to look at your board to grab it. get your head spun around and start looking for the landing asap. this is a little tricky with frontside 360's because its easy to over rotate. in this case you just want to be peaking over your shoulder, or looking straight down at the ground. thats why they call it, "landing blind". in any case, initiate your spin with your head and shoulders. remeber that once again all of your spinning power comes from your torso, not your legs. your lower body and board are just along for the ride. this is where practicing your shiftys pays off. your torso is trained to control your body movement in the air.
 
if you can apply these concepts to your riding, there is no stopping you. each new trick will just come naturally. enjoy!
 
 
http://video.google.ca/videosearch?q=polemite


SnowProfessor

Posts : 27
ONLINE

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

Posted by MountainGirl
K, what if you are a master of the chairlift (or at least, can get on and off without causing  a major pile up:) but you and the tow rope have massive issues with each other? Last time I tried to use the tow (in Jasper) I bit it so hard that the tow rope swung back and hit me in the face, cracking my goggles. Haha, yah, I wish there had been a camera, but even so it's not a moment I want to repeat.
Any tips? I'm off to Whistler soon and I'm going to try my hand at the tow again, but I still have no idea what I am doing wrong when I am trying to steer (I would veer off in random directions and then catch an edge when I tried to point myself the right way!) Any help at all would be very much appreciated!
 
It helps me to come at the rope tow with a little speed rather than from a complete stop. Since you're already moving, there's less jerking, less chance of losing your balance suddenly and it doesn't tear up your gloves quite so bad.

[Edited by SnowProfessor on 11/14/2008 at 4:35 PM]
www.SnowProfessor.com
Free snowboard video lessons galore


tim0chen

Posts : 7
ONLINE

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

Wow, thanks a ton for making this - it was super helpful!

Hmm... maybe there isn't much to expand upon, but one huge sticking point for me when doing jumps is the exact moment before takeoff, and I hope you can expand a little on it. Right before I take off before jumps, I find that if I'm on any edge at all, I feel like I have a lot less control when taking off (ie I feel less centered, and I don't have as much power to pop), so it seems like it would make most sense for the board to be flat upon takeoff. But on the other hand, when the board's flat, I don't feel as stable going up the ramp, since it's easy for me to catch an edge and I'm not used to riding flat. This holds true for park features, ie boxes, where I sometimes catch an edge and eat it right before the box since I'm trying to maintain a flat board when there's no way in hell I would ever fall if there were no box. Should I just try to practice riding w/ the board flat more (I basically always ride on an edge) so that I can takeoff more comfortably with the board flat, or is there something else I should do?

Does this make sense? I read through your posts a few times, and it would really help a lot if you could expand on exactly what your edges are like immediately before takeoff from a jump or onto a rail/box.

Also, you talk about riding on an edge when you traverse across the fall line to do jumps off of moguls etc... are you saying you pop and land both on an edge? It seems to me like it would be difficult to get the power to pop and then to have the stability/balance to land if you're doing this all on an edge, and this is something I've been struggling with.

I'm afraid I'm making too big of a deal over small things, but these are my biggest sticking points, and you guys (especially Snowolf) have done a great job explaining everything else, so I'd really appreciate it a little extra help on these matters. Thanks!!

[Edited by tim0chen on 1/6/2009 at 2:06 AM]
[Edited by tim0chen on 1/6/2009 at 2:08 AM]

nitrorox21

Posts : 60
ONLINE

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

Posted by Snowolf
About Waxing Your Board
 
Posted by KyleWeevers
Prepare for a long ass post people, I'll give you all the knowledge I have gotten over the past 7 years that I've been a tech in regards to wax:

I will start by saying no matter what base type you have a wax job will always be beneficial, having a smooth clean surface to glide on will help you keep speed on the flats, and will also help in maneuvering through pow. Extruded bases do not have to be waxed quite as often as sintered bases and this is because extruded bases are more porous. The bad thing about that is they can get deeper scratches and gouges than a sintered base.

Sintered bases should be waxed often. How often would be determined by the snow you ride. If its man made gun blown snow, wax it every time. Man made snow crystals are very sharp, and larger than snow from the heavens, and because of this it will rip the wax right off your base by the end of the day. If its light fluffy powder you can go as long as 4 - 5 riding days without a new wax coat.

Types and Temperature of waxes:

There are many different types of waxes out there, but the most common is flouro based waxes. They are fairly long lasting, and can take a rough rider. The other type as Snowolf mentioned is graphite. Graphite comes in one colour; black. It will be noticeable on a white base and people will think you need a wax job. .That is until you flash by 'em laughing your ass off. Graphite wax is harder and creates better glide with the snow than flouro wax does. Thus it is a  faster wax. It doesn't have the same staying power, but it will make you ride faster.

The whole purpose of wax:

The whole purpose of wax is not to reduce friction, but to increase. It is a huge misconception that wax will help decrease friction. To fully explain this we must examine a few other things that are related to the base of our beloved snowboards.

Base pattern: Have you ever looked at a dried out base and noticed that there is a sort of pattern to it? It looks like a bunch of dotted lines staggered one after another running lengthwise down the board. This pattern is the start of what creates the all important glide of a snowboard, by making these patterns you are creating channels for which water runs down and moves your snowboard. Many shops offer a stone grind as part of their full tune packages and what the stone does is embeds the pattern into your base.

Now when  you wax your board you fill in the grooves of the base patten to create a level surface and scrape away all the excess. This helps the flow of water that is created from the friction of gliding your board on the snow. The base pattern then directs the water down the channels and gets you rockin' faster.

This is why when you get scratches and gouges that run widthwise on your board they will slow you down more than a scratch or gouge that runs lengthwise. Also when you get scratches and deeper gouges you allow water to pool inside them and create more drag for yourself as you ride.

So in the end we use wax to increase the friction between the board and the snow to the point where water is created, and then the snowboard glides on the water, the quicker you go from snow to water, the quicker you get down the mountain. And we use the water channels created through base patterns and waxing to help direct the water through the running length of the board so that it escapes quickly.

Temperatures of wax:

Its as easy as match the colour to the temp. But for a longer explanation I'll explain the differences between warm and cold waxes. Cold waxes are much harder and as such need more heat and friction to soften them. Generally when it is colder outside snow crystals are more jagged and hard which means more friction on the board which means a colder wax will last longer. Inversely a warm wax is soft and does not need much heat to warm up and create the required glide. If you were to use warm wax on a cold day it would be pointless because the jagged ice crystals would burn off the wax in short order, and if you were to use a cold wax on a warm day, you would have to ride for 1/2 the day and not stop after that to finally get the wax to where you get a glide out of it.

That being said, whether its a cold or warm day I generally will put cold wax around the edges of my board because they will heat up faster than any other part of the board, the edges see more friction than any other part of the board so I use a cold wax for a good over all coat to make sure I get the entire use of my board rather than just the middle of it.


Whew, any questions?

 

Anyone want to tell me what the whole sharpening/dulling your edges is about?

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